Pouring epoxy resin river tables require certain types of epoxy and certain techniques. Whether it is a live edge river table or a simple coffee table with a river, prep is almost always necessary. In addition to prepping the surface as done with any epoxy table, a river project normally requires a frame or dam on either end of the river.
Because most epoxies self level, a dam is necessary to prevent the epoxy from flowing out. Essentially the dam or frame will allow the epoxy to be built up thicker than the self leveling thickness. This is why choosing the best epoxy for your river table project is paramount.
When making a dam it is important to consider whether or not the epoxy will adhere to the material used. Many people are inclined to use a wooden frame not treated and are disappointed to discover the epoxy sticks to the frame.
This will result in pounding, wedging, prying and sanding to remove the frame. Needless to say, it's important to choose wisely the frame materials. Pro Tip : Most epoxies will not stick to silicone and certain tapes.
A cheap option is to use clear packing tape as the epoxy will not stick to the tape. After the project has been properly prepped, taped and dammed off, it's time to mix and pour the epoxy.
Pouring epoxy too thick can ruin an entire project.
For a table that is to be 2" thick, this would require 9 pours of epoxy when considering a seal coat and then 8 applications at a quarter inch each. An alternative to using a coating epoxy is thick pour epoxy resin or some may use a casting resin.
DIY Epoxy River Table with Waterfall
These types of resins are thinner in viscosity, lower exotherm; thus can be poured much thicker. The caveat is that these types of resins take much longer to cure, often hours for a full cure. The downside to long cure times is more time for foreign substances i. Thin epoxies tend to work behind loose dams and ultimately seep through.
Each type of epoxy has Pros and Cons when pouring a river table project. Some find working with a coating epoxy easier while others find a single pour easier. One advantage of pouring multiple layers whether using a coating or thick pour epoxy allows for corrections to be made along the way.
For example, if bubbles were to develop early in the project, they could be sanded down and then recoated. Once cured, epoxy river tables MUST be support. Supporting the project can come in all shapes and sizes and the woodworkers out there cease to get creative with support systems, but suffice it to say that cured epoxy must be supported.
Some may be inclined to prep the project and immediately pour multiple inches thick without considering initially sealing the project.Epoxy resin tables are instantly recognizable by their high-gloss finish and the unique depth of their glass-like coating. An epoxy resin table is durable and long-lasting, making it a fun and popular choice for homes projects and restaurants. The notable feature of epoxy resin tables is the ability to seal objects and memorabilia within the epoxy resin, enabling you to create a unique table that showcases your interests and hobbies.
You can personalize an epoxy resin table with seashells, pictures, jewelry pieces, stamps and even fabric.DIY: How To Make a Resin and Wood Slab Coffee Table Using StoneCoat Countertops Epoxy Resin Part 1
Select a table or space with sturdy legs. The built-up epoxy resin will be heavy and requires substantial support. Clean the table of any dirt, dust or stains. Debris will be trapped with the epoxy if not cleaned thoroughly beforehand. Apply masking tape on the underside of the table, along the edge, to protect the bottom of the table from drips.
Place newspapers under the table to catch drips. Use a hot glue gun to secure your decorative items to the tabletop. Make sure the items are arranged and clean before you glue them down. Once the items are glued and sealed, they cannot be moved, so choose your placement with care. Seal the table and decorative items with a mixture of four parts white all-purpose glue to one part water.
Paint the mixture onto the tabletop and allow at least four hours drying time. The sealant coat must be completely dry, with no wet spots, before proceeding to the epoxy resin coat. Open the windows to provide ventilation. Put on protective gloves before working with the epoxy resin.Iredmail
Mix the epoxy resin according to the manufacturer's directions. The amount will vary, depending on the size of the tabletop and the amount and type of objects you are embedding in the resin.
Use the coverage guidelines provided by the epoxy resin product to determine the quantity to mix. Pour the mixed epoxy resin evenly over the tabletop. Use the mixing stick to move the epoxy resin over the surface of the table until the tabletop has an even coat.
Smooth the epoxy resin along the edges of the table with the mixing stick. Watch for any air bubbles that may develop in the next 30 minutes. Remove the air bubbles by gently blowing on them through a straw or holding a propane torch at least 6 inches from the surface and moving it quickly over the surface.
Use a toothpick to pop any bubbles that remain. Wait until the epoxy resin begins to thicken before scraping away the excess. Use tongue depressors or a plastic spoon to scrape off excess epoxy resin from the bottom edge of the table. You can use acetone to remove wet epoxy resin if there are any mistakes or spills. Protect the tabletop from settling dust. Suspend a tarp, sheet or large cloth over the tabletop using tall chairs positioned around the table to anchor the tarp and hold it off the surface of the table.
Allow the epoxy resin to cure for the time recommended by the product. Apply additional coats of epoxy resin, following the application process, until you achieve the desired thickness. Remove the masking tape from the underside of the table after the final coat of epoxy resin has cured.
Remove any remaining drips with grit sandpaper.Affiliate links are used on this page. In this tutorial, I show you how to make an epoxy resin river table using various tips and techniques. In fact, I use these epoxy river table pro tips and techniques on custom furniture for my clients. Often times, I experiment with many different products and tools while working with epoxy resin and wood. Therefore, the products I use in a certain project may not be my favorite.
The epoxy resin river table DIY video below compliments this written tutorial by providing more detail to each step. On the other hand, the written article provides more explanations. So, the video and the article provide a complete DIY river table tutorial to help you tackle this project. I encourage you to watch the video before or after you read the written article. For those who want to read then watch, I included this video at the end of this post with an extra bonus.
I used the leftover sinker cypress wood from my LED epoxy resin river table to make this epoxy river table. Ultimately, I purchased an entire sinker cypress slab from my hardwood dealer to build various pieces of furniture. Repetitive tasks bore me easily and I dreaded the thought of making the same table twice. As a result, I added unique glow in the dark powder to this epoxy river table top. I love working with sinker cypress wood for dining tables, desks and entryway tables.
However, cost prevents me from using this wood more often. Luckily, this epoxy resin river table makes the third sinker cypress table I built within the last 12 months.
Ultimately, the unique grain patterns, color variations, durability, and history make sinker cypress wood tables popular among woodworkers and consumers. Essentially, the epoxy resin will not adhere to the table properly if the bark is not removed. I peeled away the loose bark with my old chisel that I recently resharpened.
Then, I smoothed the surface as much as I could without damaging the live edge.I had a twisty slab of cherry that was perfect for the job, so I went for it! This project included a couple firsts for me as it was my first time working with epoxy and my first time to weld when I made the base. Working with the epoxy resin was not nearly as hard I thought.
You can use standard tools to machine it. Affiliate links are used on this page.
How to Make an Epoxy Resin Tabletop
See my disclosure page for info on affiliate programs. I was given this old cherry slab a few years ago and when I started planning for this project I knew it was the perfect piece to rip in half to give me a DIY river table. To find the best cut line, I used a string and centered it on each end of the slab.
Then I played around until I found the line I wanted and marked both ends for the cut. I clamped a straight edge to the live edge slab and used my cordless circular saw to cut the slab in multiple passes.
The cherry slab was just a little thicker than the depth of my blade so I had to finish off the cut the old fashioned way by hand. With the live edge slab cut into two halves I took them through a few milling operations to get the boards ready for the next step. I surfaced the slabs flat on one side with my jointer, then used that reference face to flatten the other side with my planer. The slabs were too thick and long for the DIY epoxy river table design I was going for, so I machined then down to the right thickness then cut them to size on my miter saw.Socrate ed erickson: due uomini così lontani nel tempo ma così
To prep for the epoxy resin pour I needed to clean up the live edges. I sanded off any loose material and got a good surface for the epoxy to stick to. The slabs were pretty gnarly and had some good size checks and cracks in them. I taped up the bottom of the cracks then mixed up some 5 minute epoxy to fill the voids. This will help stabilize the edge and keep the epoxy from leaking out during the pour. While the epoxy was setting up I moved on to making the form for the pour.
To keep the epoxy resin from sticking to the form I covered the pieces in a sealant tape. I put the epoxy resin form together with screws and then sealed the inside corners of the form with more sealant tape. I loaded the live edge slabs into the form and could really see the shape coming together. To keep the slabs from floating on the epoxy resin, I clamped the wood down and screwed it to the form from underneath. I also used hot glue to seal some small gaps at the end of the slabs to keep the epoxy out.
The form needs to be level for the epoxy pour so I shimmed up one end of my bench to even things out.Live-Edge Resin River Tables are beautiful pieces of furniture and highly sought after and with the right planning and skills can be created by experienced wood workers and DIY'ers. We recently published our Penny Floor Project Instructable due to the demand for information on the subject and now we're experiencing high volumes of calls regarding making Resin River Tables.
For this project we decided to create a coffee table with a central resin 'river' running along it, but we also mitred the sides to create a waterfall effect on both legs.
You can adapt the process to create small side tables, large dinner tables and other types of furniture and art pieces. We've also produced an eBook for in-depth instructions which you can download free of charge here.
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. When choosing your wood you need to make sure that the wood is seasoned, dry and as flat as possible.
The style and type of the wood is a personal choice - although interesting grains and waney-edges work best for this type of project. We cut down and prepared our piece of wood but if you don't have the equipment you can ask your supplier to cut the wood down to the correct size and depth and also ask them to cut it in half if you're going to do a central river channel.
You then need to flip and invert your pieces of wood to create the river channel and remove any bark from the live-edge. This will allow the resin to bond to the solid wood and the finished table will be mechanically strong. Use a chisel to remove the bark and then rub down with abrasive paper to remove any loose material, then wipe or vacuum any dirt and dust from the wood.
Now position your slabs of wood and allow for your river channel so you can make a container around the whole table slab - this will support the resin whilst pouring and curing the river :. Personal taste will dictate whether or not you choose to tint or colour your resin or leave it clear. Lots of makers are using glow powders, metallic pigments, solid colours and embedding things in their resin rivers and we would recommend thorough testing in a small amount of resin with any effect you want to achieve before attempting your table.
We used a blue translucent tinting pigment in our resin to achieve the watery effect in our table. We advise pouring a base layer to seal the underside of the wood - this will help to minimise air bubbles during the main pour.
If required, repeat the process until the river is full - remembering to double pot the mixes and if pouring multiple layers wait for the B-stage before mixing and pouring the next layer. To finish the table in the project we used a router set up over the slab on a bridge as we didn't have access to a drum sander or thicknesser and routed the surface all over by making multiple passes. This gave us a flat, even surface of equal thickness all over and we were then able to sand the surface using a hand-held sander and working through the coarse to smooth grits to achieve a beautiful finish over the wood and resin.
We worked our way through,and grits and made sure all scratches were removed from the previous grit at each stage before progressing to the next one. If this isn't done correctly there will be tiny scratches visible in the final polish and the sanding process will have to be repeated. You can of course completely avoid this stage if the look you want to achieve is a high-gloss all over which can be done by pouring a coating resin like the GlassCast 3 over the keyed surface.
Then we created the sides - you could attach ready made legs like hairpins but we wanted to create a waterfall effect on the sides to add more interest to the piece.
To finish off the table you will need to seal the wood - you can choose the look you want to achieve - we used a clear Danish Oil and rubbed it in using a lint free wipe, then allowed it to soak in and dry.
It's important that you do this prior to polishing the resin river as the polishing compound may mark the wood if it's not protected.
To polish the resin you will need a hand-held polisher and a high quality polishing compound like the Pai Cristal NW1we applied the compound to the river and used the polisher to achieve a high gloss finish. You can see from the images that the river is so glossy and the blue pigment looks so water-like. You can change the appearance of your piece of furniture by using different products like a wax or stain to change the look of the wood and of course you can change the appearance of the river too by using different colours, or embedding objects in the resin pours.
The resin also looked really good after the sanding process with an opaque look, so you could leave it with a matt effect or as we mentioned before you could pour a coating resin over for a full gloss finish on the resin and wood - it really is all about personal taste. You can also adapt the processes and techniques for lots of different projects using wood - the possibilities are endless!!!
We've got different projects and products with lots more details and technical datasheets over on our website! Check out our brand new project - Neon Resin Plank Table! Question 23 days ago on Step 1.View Cart Checkout.
The back story is she loves to follow me from room to room, and I love having her around me. Being a content creator I am always on the computer trying to get work done. I made her a desk awhile back, but that was too bulky to lug around. This is why this table came about.
The same concept can be applied to any surface. There is certainly many brands out there and this is the one I have experience with. The more layers you have the more you can wet sand it to remove scratches.
How to Make an Epoxy Resin Top Table
Chose your tabletop, I used an edge-glued panel round board. Then sand it down with grit followed by grit. Think about the base color you would want to use for your Epoxy Resin Table Top, in the project I used white.
This should prevent the exposed grain Issue I ran into later on in the project. The epoxy used in the projects is a 1 to 1 mix. One part hardener one part resin. You will repeat the same process for each pour. For the final coat, I just used the resin with no color. This was a two-part process.
The first pour was the base I went with white. After pouring the resin on the work-piece, I used a brush to evenly spread it. I tried a heat gun and I was not a fan, I like the torch better. This part is quite simple, start from one end then work your way to the other.
Now, begin your second pour, adding all the colors you will want to see in the mix. For the second pour, I used a dirty pour technique. I used a total of 5 colors, but you can pick all the colors you would want to see in the end result.
I then took a piece of 4-inch pipe and placed it on the white base. Now, pour all of the colors into the PVC pipe. Do not mix it! Next, slightly spin and lift the PVC tube and push it in the desired path. It would help if you draw out a pattern path first, rather than to try and figure it out while in the motion. I kept it simple, I pushed the resin in one direction then back.
You can try anything you like, swirling the pipe, zigzag, or whatever comes to mind.Paint rock river agate
You can even tilt the work-piece to create movement in the design. Once you get the pattern you like, take the torch and remove the bubbles.El chapo netflix season 4
Then, let this sit for 24 hours.Some time ago I managed to make my first instructable presenting to you guys a console table with epoxy resin inlays.
Now it's time for somethin new. Epoxy River Coffee Table - walnut slab with resin. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. So, I've acquired another great slab of walnut. Originally it was 2,5 meters long so decision was made to cut it in half. After doing so, the slab cracked into 2 beautiful pieces. I used a steel brush and a drill to remove cortex from the edges and all ather loose pieces off rotten wood.
Of course the slab was leveld and sanded a bit. In order to put resin on this beauty I had to connect the slabs somehow. So the slabs were drilled with a 12mm drill and prepared to fit a 12mm stainles tube. After taping the back with packing tape time came to do the first pour of resin.
I used the same epoxy that was used with the pervious work click here. A thin layer of well mized epo cured to be beautifully crystal clear. In the meantime between pours of epoxy I welded legs for this coffee table. Pouring thin layers of epoxy took a long time, every pour cured 16 to 24 hours and took ages to do it. But finally all the cracks were filled with resin and left for 3 days to cure. Why 3? To be sure that it hardened perfectly. The first impression was great, but looking close I saw that the tape folded and it was visible through the resin.
But before any further work I had to see if what I have done already was consistent with the vision in my head how it was supposed to look like. And surprisingly it looks just like in my head 4 weeks ago.
Being sure that the epoxy is cured I started sandig it with a grit paper. I use this tool, doing it manually would take another month to get rid of all the extra resin. The pictures were taken halfway through snading.
Still a lot to work on, and most important polishing the epoxy to high gloss. You have to remember this important thing: when sanding epoxy resin the amount of white dust is unbelievable and covers everything what's in your workshop. It's good to use a dust mask and all avaliable protective gear you can think of. Just for your own health. After all the previous sanding I had to sand it a bit more to smooth the surface resinbut still to be a bit rough wood.
When the slab was sanded time came to work on the resin inlay. I used water sandpaper,and manually sanded it.
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